Central Grampians Volume 2

Errata and Additions

Updates and corrections to Central Grampians Volume 2

Updated 6 June 2022

Download PDF document of updates to Volume 2. Link.


Page 15 mentions that bolt placement is illegal. The revised Management Plan, issued December 2021, allows placement of fixed protection including bolts, within guidelines.  Refer to the GGLMP for details.

The grade comparison chart, at some stage, lost a line for “5.2” and so the lower grades were wrongly compared.  Grades from 16/5.8 and above were correct.  The updated chart is below:

Rectangle: Rounded Corners: French/Eu	Aus/Ewbank	YDS
1	3-4	5.0
2	5-6	5.1
2-3	7	5.2
3	8-9	5.3
4a	10	5.4
4b	11-12	5.5
4c	13	5.6
5a	14-15	5.7
5b	16	5.8
5c	17	5.9
6a	18	5.10a
6a+	19	5.10b
6b	20	5.10c/d
6b+	21	5.10d/5.11a
6c/6c+	22	5.11b
6c+/7a	23	5.11c
7a+	24	5.11d/5.12a
7a	24-25	5.11d-5.12a
7b	26-27	5.12b-c
7c	28-29	5.12d-5.13a

Epacris Hills

The “steep line L of Pillow Biter” has been done:

Lost  24m 16

Start up diagonal lines, then up via tricky mantle to join that line.  

Goshen Watts (solo) 11.01.22.

Moora Moora

Eastern Wall p98

The description of Exotic Dishes is wrong, it should say “Move R to break in roof”.  The topo is also incorrect as the upper part Exotic Dishes is further left than marked – the belay is the same ledge as Broken China.

Henham Track

Cirque Creek New Routes

First Buttress:

These routes are L of the existing routes.

Barrow Boy  12m 17

Grey Face on the left side of the outcrop, finish up V-Groove.

Bernie Mishkinis & Goshen Watts 12/3/22

Cirque Du Soleil  14m 23 

Slightly contrived line up the ‘middle buttress’, with rather unlikely moves going left through the orange steepness.

Small offset wire essential for the crux.  Goshen Watts & Bernie Mishkinis. 12/3/22

4th Buttress:

Russian Interference.  20m 21

Major line up the L side of the prow.  Scramble up through L side of ‘fallen block’, undercling through roof and up the line above.  After the difficultly, step R to small ledge, then trend back L up the line above.  Goshen Watts & Bernie Mishkinis. 12/3/22

Castle Creek Upper p146

The description for Rhinestone should say “L of the arete”, but of course it is clear on the topo.

Redman Road

Baxter’s Pinnacles p161

The description in Bearings refers to “the first two routes”, but that was written before I renumbered them.  They are a reference to the last two routes.

Barbican Rocks

New climb (on the Far L of the Crag):
High and Dry 40m 17
3m R of Captain Snowball.  Up cracked face, then take arete direct all the way to finish over roof / corner crack.  Belay on ledge below summit. Walk off.  Goshen Watts, Dick Lodge 15/4/22.

Corrections: The topo page 178 has the lines slightly wrong.  #14 starts in the corner (as per description).  #15 goes up slightly easier ground to the R – not via the alternate route suggested (so you can cross that off).

Redman Bluff

From Goshen – April 2022:
Got some more corrections and notes for you:

Lines 37 and 38 appear to be marked and described correctly on the topo.
However, the “Blackfoot” plaque is almost exactly at the base of Sioux, within a metre or two.
The Blackfoot description also matches the line that starts as for Sioux, but goes up then L.

The most likely thing here is that someone got it wrong at some point in the past with “32m L / R”.

Also, tried to find “Private School for Girls” (Route 4); but it didn’t look terribly appealing, although I think I can see where it starts.
Instead; saw a “better line” that went straight up…. and it turned out to be very exciting and worthwhile indeed.

Note: About 20m R of Pocahontas is an ‘open book’ corner that appears to be an unclimbed (no protection) and would be a direct start to “Private School for Girls”; but I’m pretty sure that route starts pretty much where ours does, but just traverses diagonally R up to the more obvious “Face Crack” (see faint dotted lines on image).

Cherokee Nation 70m 22
15m R of Pocahontas is a short/shallow orange corner (PSFG goes R from here).  1) 40m 22.  Straight up thin corners and into the crack-line above, which is followed to a memorable and committing finale (med cams required for belay).  2) 30m 22.  Move L and climb short, difficult crack then up R to go through roof via “diving board”, crack above.  Goshen Watts, Dick Lodge 15/4/22.   [marked in red].